KICKING OFF THE BUCKET LIST

 

Kashmir was first on my bucket list when I crossed the half century mark. So in 2019, to celebrate that event I took the dare and booked my family a return trip to the Zanaat of India. At that time, Nathan was already in Brazil and Kirsten was working so he stayed back and took care of our pets, Ebony 🐕 and Ivory 🐈.

Thanks to my late parents Hannibal and Patsy Menezes whose inheritance money sponsored the entire holiday, I was able to realise this dream and celebrate my 50th birthday on the slopes of Gulmarg.  (Total expenses paid by them post mortem was Rs 75000 for flight tickets, Rs 36000 for land package, extras like pony rides, sledge rides, gondola ride, white water rafting, etc. and shopping came to around Rs 25000. Glenn paid for food items (lunch) and medicines which came to around Rs 5000. So total expenses was around one and a half lakh. Just so you know)☺

We left Goa by IndiGo airlines early morning 2.20 am for Bengaluru. A stopover of 2 hrs then connecting flight by IndiGo to Srinagar. When we reached it was pouring. 

Srinagar is a defence airport hence we were told to shut the windows while landing. 

That morning some gunman had been shot so there was a curfew. Our driver told us to stay in the hotel and he'd check about sightseeing. We settled down in our rooms, feeling a bit disappointed. Later around 4 pm, the director of Travel Home, Meer,  came to meet us and, when we told him about what the driver had said, he immediately made arrangements for his personal driver to take us sightseeing. He also arranged for another driver Ijaz to be our driver cum guide for the next 3 days. 

So we got to see Pari Mahal, Chashme Shahi Baug and Nishant Gardens before I requested our driver to take me shopping. 

Our many purchases on this trip. 

After that we returned to the hotel, and slept well, excited about the next day.

Day 1 SRINAGAR

We arrived at the hotel and had to wait for about an hour to get our rooms because although 12 noon is check in, it depends how soon a room gets free as guests leave for the airport. Flights are noon onwards I figure. Or early morning, coz we could hear sounds of guests moving out on subsequent days as early as 3 or 4 am. 

The hotel served us breakfast since we were famished for which we had to pay, of course. (Our package included breakfast and dinner for 3 days starting 24 night.) 

The rooms are very comfortable. Hot water is available for restricted hours in the morning and night. With such cold weather, hot baths are a necessity especially after a tiring day of touring and travel. 

I unpacked for everyone, settled the boys in one room where they happily began watching TV, while Charis n I got our room the way we wanted it. I prepared sandwiches for lunch, followed by some warm coffee, thanks to the electric kettle kept for our use. Stocked the mini fridge too with the cans of corned beef n luncheon meat, cheese, etc. that we had carried from Goa. 

Around 5 pm, we moved out for sightseeing (see details above) and returned for dinner. Next day Sonmarg.

Day 2 SONMARG

We left at 8.30 after a quick breakfast for Sonmarg. Its a 3 hr journey, the view on the way is breathtaking. We stopped on the way to visit the toilet, then proceeded to the main hub of Sonmarg where ponies can be hired to go up to the Thajiwas Glacier. The guys there simply fire prices. We bargained for Rs 1000 per pony and 2 guides came with us. The amount includes snow boot and jacket. The sledge driver comes to pester for rides at the glacier and that completely spoilt the ride for us. Further, once we reached the glacier, when we bargained for a price they bring in helpers who charge separately. We ended by getting fooled into paying Rs 400 per person so its my advice not to go to Sonmarg but enjoy the same snow and ponies at Gulmarg for a much lesser price. If you leave Sonmarg entirely out of your trip, you won't miss a thing, believe me. In retrospect, I think that the same amount of Rs 5000 we paid for ponies could have been paid to go to Phase 2 at Gulmarg. 

Since it had rained the day we arrived, the snow had become ice so we only got to make ice golas to throw at one another. Disappointing!!!

Day 3 GULMARG

It was a Sunday, so we had to attend Mass before we left for Gulmarg. The previous night Charis was sick with vomiting and loose motions so Glenn and the driver took her to the Children's Hospital while Aaron, Dan n I attended Mass. There is only one Catholic church in Srinagar and only one service on Sundays. Halfway thru Mass, Glenn n Charis came in. Seems God was on our side. At the hospital, they were able to meet the doctor due to a friend of the driver who happened to be there when they arrived. Through his influence, they got the doctor and brought the medicines without much delay. 

After Mass, we left for Gulmarg. The tourist taxi is not allowed beyond the main hub. To go to the gondola booking office, you have to walk a distance of 500 metres. I had pre-booked e tickets for 2 pm and it was 1.30 when we started walking. As usual, there too the pony owners pester you saying you won't reach in time, etc. Pony for that distance was Rs 100. I was exhausted as I hardly walk here on daily basis so we walked slowly and reached by 2.50. We sat in the gondola and went to phase 1. Everyone went to phase 2 as there was no snow at Phase 1. But it was terribly windy at phase 1 and my nose froze!!! The snow boots and coats were of no use as we had no snow there. So its my advice to check before going if there is snow on phase 1. 

Anyway, we sat down in the pavilion nearby. I made sandwiches and had carried Tang which we drank. I had also carried a flask of hot water to make coffee but no one wanted so I had a cup myself and Glenn sipped some of it. We were getting fed up of the extreme cold due to the chilly mountain winds so we left the place sooner than planned. In the valley, it was warmer, we again had to walk the 500 metres to where our cab was. Pony guys came again to worry us but we ignored them and started saying the rosary. 

We left Gulmarg for Srinagar around 4 pm. Being Sunday, I couldn't go shopping so we headed straight back to the hotel. Charis suffered the most and I was worried her condition would worsen because of the exertion.  That night I received a message from a friend to give her holy water to drink which I made her do. She had fever too and I was awake practically the whole night, checking her brow and watching to see if there was any thing to panic about. In a strange place, even a small sickness feels so huge and one feels so helpless.

On our way to Gulmarg we stopped at a scenic spot and cut our double dhamaka cake. 

Day 4 PAHALGAM

Charis was slightly better by the morning, Praise God. We left early morning at 7.30 (with all our luggage as we had to leave the hotel) for PAHALGAM. On the way, we went to the rafting spot and Aaron did white water rafting. He says it didn't impress him very much. Well, after that, the driver took us to the Apple gardens where we got to drink fresh apple juice extracted like how sugarcane juice is done here. These apples are of the previous crop, stored in cold storages. Right now, the apples are small, green, just starting to grow. By Sept Oct they will be ready to pluck. 

From there we went to the main hub. Here they have fixed rates for cab rides to the various points. Our driver told us that if we wanted to go to Baisaran a pony ride takes you there. As we were fed up of hearing the word 'pony' we decided to do the Union cab to Aru Valley and Betaab Valley instead. Cab cost was Rs 1450 for Eeco. The ride to the valley was more enjoyable than the valleys themselves. Aru Valley was smelling of pony dung, it was difficult to picnic there. We had our lunch there, didn't walk around as Charis was still weak. Then we went to Betaab. One word of caution - entry fee for Betaab is Rs 100 for adults n Rs 50 for children. And there's nothing worth going there for. There's an amusement park but we didn't go there. We just sat in a pavilion and came back in the taxi to our driver and proceeded back home. 

In my opinion, going back and forth the 3 days was tiring and my advice would be to stay at a place for 2 days at least if you wish to enjoy the various places there. There are hotels at every place. You can customize your tour the way you want. 

So we returned back, stopping again at Apple Gardens to buy apples and drink some more juice. Yum!!!

I managed a spot of shopping on our return before we went to the houseboat for dinner and rested.

And so our holiday ended with us returning back to Srinagar and catching the flight to Goa via Delhi this time on Air Asia. We went to say Thank you to the lady who was our online contact for booking the trip before we left for the airport. 

A word of thanks to our dear guide cum driver cum friend Ijaz who, not only provided us adequate information about all the places we visited, but also gave us valuable tips on how to negotiate with the people there. 

Ijaz - our driver and tour guide. Now our friend for life. ❤

We have kept in contact (sort of) and would recommend that you contact him directly so he can earn and you can thoroughly feel at home in Kashmir. (His number: 7006138470) He tells me tourism is not happening so he is starting a small business in saffron. He can courier supplies if you need this.